Corn snakes
Corn snakes (Pantherophis guttatus, formally known as elapha guttata guttata, reclassified in 2002) are widely regarded as THE beginners snake. They are easy to keep and are generally quite forgiving of mistakes that beginners often make. This doesn't mean you can cut corners in research and husbandry, all pets should be cared for regardless of how easy this care may be.
- They reach a managable size (4-5ft on average)
- They are good feeders
- They are docile and very handleable (there are of course exceptions)
- They are readily available as captive bred specimens.
- Any specialist equipment they might require (all reptiles require specialised equipment) is relatively cheap and readily available
- The temperatures they require are very easily achieved with basic reptile equipment
General corn snake care
Temperatures: Warm end of 86f, cool end of room temperature (75f or so)
Humidity: Room humidity at about 40%, increase slightly when the snake is shedding.
Vivarium size (young): 18x12x12in for hatchlings and juveniles, increasing in size as the snakes grow, don't just put a juveniles corn snake in a vivarium the size that would suite an adult.
Vivarium size (adult): 36x18x18in is the minimum for a single adult, more space is better.
Feeding: Feed once a week, offer hatchlings 1-2 pinkies, juvenile corn snakes will take 1-2 fluffs. Just feed 1 or 2 of the appropriate sized food items throughout the snakes life. Adult corn snakes shouldn't have more than 1 large mouse a week as they will quickly become fat.
Please note, use the above only as a rough guide and a starting/reference point. There is alot more to keeping corn snakes than that. For a more comprehensive care guide see our care sheets page.
So, you've decided you want a corn snake, but what do you need to buy?
I've compiled a basic list of the bare essentials required to keep a corn snake. Anything else you can add yourself providing you make sure its perfectly safe (no sharp edges, free from bacteria, poisons, pests, etc).
- An enclosure. This can be as simple as DIY storage tub, an old aquarium with a new lid or a special reptile vivarium (check out the DIY page for one of the best DIY vivarium guides you'll find on the internet).
- News paper or kitchen roll, this should be used as a substrate for youngsters all the time, it should be used for a few months with older snakes so you can easily spot any potential problems (mites, parasites, etc)
- 2 hides. One for the warm end and one for the cool end. These can be as simple as card board boxes wth holes cut in them, you can also use special reptile ones, pieces of bark, etc.
- A waterbowl, you can get reptile ones but any appropriately sized (should be big enough for the snake to soak in and drink from) sloping bowl will suffice.
- A rock or rough surface to aid in shedding, if you are using bark or rock hides you don't need one of these.
- Heat mat, this should only cover a maximum of half of the vivarium (so if you had a 24x12in vivarium the maximum size heat mat for you would be 11x11in), generally aim for 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor space to be heated via the heat mat
- A thermostat, this is essential to control the heater. You would want what it known as a "mat stat" or a "temperature stat", these are inexpensive and an essential piece of kit. If you are planning on splashing out, get a pulse thermostat, these provide a more steady temperature but are more expensive.
- Thermometer, to monitor the temperature. Just because you have a thermostat doesn't mean you can slack off temperature monitoring
As I mentioned earlier they are the bare essentials, you can add more if you like. I like to add something (a branch, a piece of cork bark leant against the wall, etc) the corn snake can climb on as they seem to enjoy climing.
Remember, if you can't afford the equipment you can't afford the pet.
Often referred to as the corn snake bible, and rightly so. If you buy this book, read it properly and use the information, you can't go wrong.
