Royal pythons
Click here to read our comprehensive ball python care sheet
Royal pythons (Python reguis ) make a fantastic starter snake providing you are prepared to eager to learn and research before buying your new pet. A key thing to do is make sure you buy a CB (captive bred) specimen which you know is feeding. Some shops may try to sell you a CF (captive farmed) or even WC (wild caught) specimen as CB. You should therefore try to buy from a reputable breeder. A good pet shop should be able to provide supply feeding records for the snake and if you're really lucky may even offer to feed it in front of you so you can be sure it is feeding.
- They reach a managable size (3-4ft on average)
- Captive bred specimens are usually good feeders, they can however be fussy over winter, particularly the males
- They are docile and relatively handleable (there are of course exceptions)
- They are readily available as captive bred specimens if you are prepared to look.
- Once you have purchased the specialist equipment they require it will not need to be replaced for years to come.
- Captive bred specimens are relatively problem free.
Royal python care
Temperatures: Warm end of 92f, cool end of 82-84f or so
Humidity: 50-60% or so
Vivarium size (young): 18x12x12in for hatchlings and juveniles, increasing in size as the snakes grow, don't just put a juvenile royal python in a vivarium the size that would suite an adult.
Vivarium size (adult): 36x18x18in is a good size vivarium for a large adult specimen. Make sure you provide plenty of tight fitting hides.
Feeding: Royal pythons are known for their fasting. If you get a captive bred specimen which you know is feeding you shouldn't have any problems. Feed hatchlings 2-3 fluffs once a week. They will soon grow and be able to take small mice, then large mice. Once they are taking large mice (once a week) then it is simply a case of stepping up the size of the food item as required. Feed 1 item once a week throughout the snakes life. It is not unusual for a mature specimen (males are know in particular for this) to fast over the winter. If your snake seems to be doing this, try feeding in the usual way once every 3 weeks, eventually your snake will want to eat again. As far as methods for feeding go, most CB specimens from private breeders will be strike feeders. They will strike at the food item when it is wiggled in front of them. Make sure you find out the prefererred method of feeding for your snake off your breeder.
Please note, use the above only as a rough guide and a starting/reference point. There is alot more to keeping royal pythons than that. For a more full care sheet please see our comprehensive royal python care sheet.
So, you've decided you want a royal python, but what do you need to buy?
I've compiled a basic list of the bare essentials required to keep a royal python. The requirements of a royal python vary throughout its life, therefore I have split it into 2 sections; what a royal python will need as a hatchling/juvenile, and what a royal python will need as an adult. Please note, there will be some overlap in what the snake needs, obviously you don't need to buy them again.
Requirements of a hatchling royal python
- An enclosure. This can be as simple as DIY storage tub, or a plastic tub for reptiles with airholes in. It should be no larger than 18x12x12.
- News paper or kitchen roll, this should be used as a substrate for youngsters all the time.
- 2 hides. One for the warm end and one for the cool end. An important aspect of hides for royal pythons is they need to be "snug". Royal pythons are very shy snakes and need a retreat where when they hide there they touch the sides of the hide and thus feel safe and secure. Plant pots are ideal for this as they come in all sizes for growing royal pythons.
- A waterbowl, you can get reptile ones but any appropriately sized (should be big enough for the snake to soak in and drink from) sloping bowl will suffice.
- A rock or rough surface to aid in shedding, if you are using bark or rock hides you don't need one of these.
- Heat mat, this should only cover a maximum of half of the vivarium (so if you had a 24x12in vivarium the maximum size heat mat for you would be 11x11in), generally aim for 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor space to be heated via the heat mat
- A thermostat, this is essential to control the heater. You would want what it known as a "mat stat" or a "temperature stat", these are inexpensive and an essential piece of kit. If you are planning on splashing out, get a pulse thermostat, these provide a more steady temperature but are more expensive.
- Thermometer, to monitor the temperature. Just because you have a thermostat doesn't mean you can slack off temperature monitoring
Requirements of an adult (or sub adult) royal python
- An enclosure. This should be a wooden vivarium with front access via glass sliding doors. They feel more secure in a "boxed in" environment, 36x18x18in is a good size, no larger.
- News paper or kitchen roll, you can also use bark chips when the python is adult if you feed outside of the vivarium (feeding on bark chips can pose a very real risk of impaction).
- 2 hides. One for the warm end and one for the cool end. An important aspect of hides for royal pythons is they need to be "snug". Royal pythons are very shy snakes and need a retreat where when they hide there they touch the sides of the hide and thus feel safe and secure. Plant pots are ideal for this as they come in all sizes for growing royal pythons.
- A waterbowl, you can get reptile ones but any appropriately sized (should be big enough for the snake to soak in and drink from) sloping bowl will suffice.
- A rock or rough surface to aid in shedding, if you are using bark or rock hides you don't need one of these.
- A ceramic heater and fitting. These are ideal for royal pythons (if you ask me, they were made for them). They provide the perfect temperature gradient providing they are used correctly. They get very hot and MUST be used in a heatproof holder (available from good DIY stores for a few ££, or even off ebay) and heatproof wire. Not using heatproof wire or a holder prevents a serious fire risk
- A thermostat, this is essential to control the heater. You can use a standard on/off temperature thermostat, I recomend using a pulse stat though, they are more expensive but provide a much more constant temperature.
- A mesh guard for the ceramic heater. These are essential, the surface temperature of a ceramic heater is hundreds of degree's and will seriously (or fatally) burn your royal python if you don't use a guard. They are available cheaply from vivtronic (google it).
- Thermometer, to monitor the temperature. Just because you have a thermostat doesn't mean you can avoid temperature monitoring.
As I mentioned earlier they are the bare essentials, you can add more if you like. I like to add something (a branch, a piece of cork bark leant against the wall, etc) that the royal python can climb on, they seem to enjoy climing despite being rather clumsy.
Remember, if you can't afford the equipment you can't afford the pet.
Often referred to as the royal python bible, and rightly so. If you buy this book, read it properly and use the information, you can't go wrong.
